RE: Feeling Deep Frustration, Attacking Life Doc, Heart Trouble: My Surfing Week
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That instagram link looks like great conditions, but the surfer appears to be on the inside of the bay while everybody else seems to be waiting on presumably more exposed, raw swell out the back...
Hmmm, for me kooking around in big waves is a result of fear, which will then result in shame if I let something go when I should have tried...
The frustration you mention... for me this is when my body shuts down (noodle arms, stiff back) from being unfit, after about an hour or two in any conditions! Hahaha!
You don't want those two feelings at the same time - so if the adrenaline is high I tend to call it a day with some gas left in the tank!
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I never stop until I'm totally cactus!!
Yeah that's the famous lefts ... More fast and fun I reckon than the big fat lumps out back. If I'm honest it's not my fave wave. And these days stupid crowded.
I wish I was 30 again. This aging body doesn't cope with surging as much as it used to!!