Making Progress with Bouldering

Wow! It's been over a year since I first wrote about returning to bouldering, after about a 20 year break. We've made some friends along the way and love our climbing sessions with them. They've improved faster than us, but then they go twice as often, so that's probably no surprise. I just need to not get distracted with that and observe my own steady improvement. We've all learnt so much from one another, anyway.

I've reached a point in climbing where I need to be strengthening myself in a variety of ways in order to keep progressing, especially at my age if I want to keep up with my spring chicken daughter. As you move onto the harder climbs, more things come into play so that you end up having to combine strengths with weaknesses. I'm known for enjoying crimp (small, fingertip) holds, so I do fairly well on them, unless they've added in a move where I need to lunge for a hold, then I struggle. I’m not very good with dynamic moves (jumping moves) or lunging for holds in general.

It's in interesting that I've learnt much more about climbing and technique than I did when climbing two decades ago. Perhaps it's because it's become a much more popular sport and there are more people to discuss things with or perhaps it's come with the internet, meaning you can learn and watch so much more in an easily accessible way. I've also taken a bit more charge of my climbing experience and at the end of each session, when I'm too worn out for the harder climbs, I will do a round of climbs I know I can already climb, usually a step below my limit, to give myself that extra push to build myself. When I started it was the easy, blue tag climbs, but I quickly moved on to doing a round of all the green tags in the gym.

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When I could easily do a round of all the green tag climbs, without too much rest in between, I made a new challenge to also climb back down them, rather than coming down via the easiest route. Now that this has become fairly easy for me and I'm able to do more red tag climbs, I've started doing a round of purple tags at the end of the session, unless I'm too exhausted, then I might do the green round instead. I can't always climb back down the purples, but hopefully I'll build up, like I did with the greens.

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My daughter recently took some photos of me towards the end of one of our climbing sessions. They were medium, purple tag climbs, but each with slightly different styles. The easiest one had a mixture of holds where you can get your fingers hooked in to varying degrees. The further in you can get your fingers, the easier it is to hang on. Some I could only get my first knuckles into, while others, you might be able to see from the photos, that I was getting a full grip up to my palms. The harder holds you usually want to move past quickly, while you can pause and rest a moment on the easier to grip ones.

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A nice deep hold where you can get a comfortable grip is called a jug and mini jugs are slightly smaller ones where you can get a reasonably good grip still, but perhaps only up to the second knuckle. This climb was a mixture of jugs and mini jugs. A good introduction to purple level climbs.

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This next climb had some good jugs, but it was on an overhang, so all your weight is falling away from the wall. This means that while having your feet on the wall helps to take a little weight off your arms, there is no time in the climb to fully rest your arms and let your feet take your weight. Part way through the climb there is also a lunge move to get the next hold and this is a move I sometimes come off on if I'm tired. For people taller than me it's, not a big move, but every time I, and others on the shorter side, do it my feet cut loose (come off the wall) and I swing out. It needs a bit of power to control that swing and bring my feet back to the wall. Luckily the holds are good, otherwise I probaby wouldn't have the strength to bring myself back in.


The third photo shows me lunging for that hold and I actually missed that time. I got it on the second attempt and completed the climb, then got told off when I came down because my daughter didn't realise I was going to attempt it again.

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The following climb required a bit less strength, but added in a bit more balance and interesting movements. I've seen people navigating over the square volumes in a few different ways, but this was the way that worked best for me. The start was a nice jug, to help you get your balance on the wall, then the volumes acted like slopers or ledges, depending on the angle you needed to hold onto them.

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Getting my leg up onto the volume helped give me leverage to reach up for a better grip than I could reach with my legs lower down. I'm not sure if you'd call it a heel hook or a leg hook (the latter probably not an actual climbing term), though.

You can end up in some pretty odd looking positions while climbing. Any part of your body is also free game to use, if needed, in my opinion. I've sat on holds before, much to the amusement of my stronger peers who could get their leg up when I couldn't. I've even used my head to help balance me on the wall before.

The finish required balance as there was only the friction of your fingers to keep you against the wall.

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Further information on hold types if you're interested.

Dividers created by @kaliphae and available for use from Stock Images



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Damn that looks tough. Even though I gym, holding 105kg up on those rocks wouldnt be fun

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It wouldn't be easy! I'm over half that weight! There are quite a few memes joking about how tiny built men are often better climbers than bulky muscle bound types and this is down to the strength to weight ratio. Ironically my husband just got bulkier and bulkier from climbing as he put on muscle, then needed more muscle to get himself up the wall. 😆 Unfortunately, he not been able to climb for a while now after fracturing his wrist while launching for a hold. He's carrying a bit more than muscle weight these days, so should have been taking it easier than he did. He's probably around 90kg.

Having said all that, it's actually really good to see all body shapes climbing and they can tailor to suit their abilities. It's the effort and persistence that's the most impressive and nearly everyone's really supportive there.

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I remember going a couple years back and despite going gym all the time the soreness was next level! I agree with the strength to weight ratio concept especially after watching Ninja Warriors!!

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Lol! You discover muscles you didn't know you had! When one pain subsides because you've improved that strength, another starts for some new area to be worked on.

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Wow this is sooo amazing. Look at the strength in your arms! I can tell you really enjoy it. It always struck me as a game of strategy as much as strength, something that really appealed to me. I never got around to doing it though. Great post!

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It's very much strategy and technique as much as strength, if not more so. I can't count the amount of climbs I've struggled on, only to watch someone else go up in a way I hadn't thought of. They're real DOH! moments, because it's just so much easier when you realise what you were getting wrong. It's often as fun to watch other climbers as it is to climb yourself.

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I go to that bouldering gym also. Didn’t realize you were a fan.

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Nice! Kent Town? It's a shame we haven't crossed paths. Although with all the mask wearing at the moment, I often don't recognise some people straight away, unless they have distinctive hair or I know them well.

We're usually there Tuesday and Friday afternoons, although we might not make it until Wednesday this week.

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Bouldering is one of those sports that I love to watch (it was love at first watch). By the way, looking at the photos, I think you are great at bouldering.

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It is a great sport to watch, too. Often it's very technical and the climbers use some interesting methods to progress on the wall.

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This was so cool seeing you do this! What a great way to challenge your strength and stay fit. When I was younger I had really strong upper body strength but I haven’t did much to keep that. I can see that you can sometimes end up in really awkward positions. I really enjoyed this post.

I noticed you don’t have on a harness. 😳

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I was always upper body strength, while my sister was leg strength (she does ballroom dancing these days). I still have a lot of work to do on legs, because there are those climbs that require it. My daughter does well on those, but not me. 😅

Bouldering walls only go up to three metres, sometimes a little less. That grey floor in the first photos is actually a crash mat which is knee deep. So no harness needed, they'd only get in the way.

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Amazing! Really can feel you.
My fiancée and I did start to boulder at last winter and really do enjoy it! It is quite an interesting sport and it was pretty amazing to see the women and men doing it during the Olympics.
It looks like you are having fun as well! Although it looks quite difficult. I am looking forward to my next climb.
Keep up the good work! @andy-plays

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If you ever share your climbing on here, do tag me. If love to see you both climbing and read about your experiences.

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This is super cool! Bouldering was always my dream sport as a teenager, but I was unable to do it ever as it is not available in my country. Even for children, it is not yet common here.

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What country are you in?

When we first started climbing those two decades ago, it wasn't very popular then. Very few women climbed as well, so I felt kind of left out when all the men were bonding over it. Even when we arrived in Australia, over 13 years ago, the options for climbing were limited and not very good. Now it's becoming really popular and there are nearly as many women as men doing it. Fingers crossed you start to see it where you are too. There are always rocks to climb outdoors as well, if you're near somewhere suitable. You just need something to land on if you fall or stay close to the ground. We even have a bridge here we sometimes climb. I like to traverse around the base pillar.

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Woah! I am so impressed, I don't think I could do this. But I have to ask: why aren't you wearing a harness in case you fall? Isn't that required?

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LOL! Crosheille asked the same question. This is bouldering, so do you see that grey floor in the first photos? That's a huge crash mat, the thickness of which comes up to your knee. Bouldering walls don't go higher than 3 metres (I think this one is about 2.5m), so no harness needed and ropes would just get in the way anyway at this height.

It doesn't mean there aren't occasional injuries, but they'll run through safety measures before you climb for the first time to try and minimise them. Most of them come from bad landings (twisted ankles for example).

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Ohhh I see! I didn't know that bouldering was a different set up. Learn something new every day! :)

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The biggest the jugs, the better...

Sorry I couldn't help myself 😇

Joke aside, you're doing great! The jean pant though, totally too rock and roll for climbing haha!

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LOL! I guess it had to be said at some point. As I was writing I was rather aware of some other descriptions which could have come of a sounding a bit saucy, too. 😜

My daughter teases me about climbing in jeans. Few people wear them for climbing, especially women. I don't look good or feel comfortable in leggings, though, and I'm not really keen on trackies either. I might look at cargo pants, but they aren't easy to come by in women's sizes.

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which could have come of a sounding a bit saucy, too

You knew exactly what you were doing, and I fell for it! Big time haha.

Don't worry about the jean pant, whatever rocks your boat! Logically, a ninja outfit would probably be the most suitable 😆 one...

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That looks class and you look to be very very good at it. I've never given this a go, I must keep an eye out for a climbing centre here in Ireland, as it looks like a lot of fun and a good challenge.

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Awe, thank you. There are plenty of regulars way better than myself, but I'm there to enjoy it and improve myself, not to compare. I certainly recommend giving it a go. I'm not much for fitness for fitness sake, so doing it through something I enjoy is very much more productive for me. It's great for accomplishing little goals and challenges to suit your level and strengths.

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Oh man, I already get dizzy looking at you climb that wall :)
It always amazes me to see people climbing these walls, I would be scared to death, just being honest haha. Not afraid of heights or anything but this would not be for me.

Looks like you are doing a great job!

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Sorry, didn't mean to make you dizzy. 😆

It's not for everyone, just like caving isn't for everyone...a climbing friend suggested I join them caving...noooope! Too claustrophobic for that!!

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Well, I get that too. On many holidays in Turkey, I remember these awesome caves in the tourist folders often together with boat trips, so mostly to swim through caves. I always wanted to go there as well, but I"m too afraid to go in and that I will find myself having a panic attack while halfway there, and not being able to turn back or something haha.

I know I"m missing out, but gosh, I'm too scared. There are beautiful caves here too, you can walk through them and some of them seem beautiful on pics I've seen, still wondering if I should give that a try before leaving. But not with the mask madness currently, so if it will happen, it will happen when masks aren't mandated. I don't want to have a panic attack wearing one if it doesn't turn out great :)

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Never seen a bouldering gym before and have seen climbing walls in shopping centres but not like this. Proper workout as climbing uses virtually every muscle and very interesting post.

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In shopping centres? I've seen mobile ones occasionally when they do festivals. They're usually the roped ones. Is that what they have in shopping centres?

You're in South Africa, aren't you? I'd be curious to know if you do find any climbing gyms there. They are certainly becoming more popular in many countries. Japan apparently has them everywhere. In that link at the bottom of the post is a video from a guy who is/was in Thailand.

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I have such admiration for people who can do this. My grip strength is terrible. This makes mybpalms sweat just looking at the pics. I try to make myself do stiff like this when the opportunity arises to try to overcome the fears a little bit. Also, jeans???? My 13 year old loves to boulder. Occassionally, we take her to climbing gyms
She also loves climbing trees and light poles. Ha ha

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LOL! Sweating palms is a given when it comes to climbing anyway. Even taking about climbs week get them going. On the way back with my daughter yesterday we were talking about one with a hold you doing onto with your fingertips and just my fingertips decided to sweat. 🤣

Your 13 year old sounds like my girls. Always climbing! If by some miracle you ever make it to South Australia, she's more than welcome to join us. 🙂

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Oh man! That would be amazing. Australia is on our bucket list someday. Unfortunately, she won't be so little when we finally go.

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You must be in great condition to even attempt this. I don't see any type of safety harness, that has got to make you hang on a little tighter.

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Even when I did lead climbing with a harness I was still clinging on tight! 😂 The walls for bouldering are never over 3 metres high, I think these ones are 2.5m. The crash mats underneath are nice and thick too.

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