RE: Feeling Deep Frustration, Attacking Life Doc, Heart Trouble: My Surfing Week

I never stop until I'm totally cactus!!

Yeah that's the famous lefts ... More fast and fun I reckon than the big fat lumps out back. If I'm honest it's not my fave wave. And these days stupid crowded.

I wish I was 30 again. This aging body doesn't cope with surging as much as it used to!!